![]() ![]() Motion pictures especially advertised a new standard of beauty and sex appeal. The invention of the photograph and motion picture launched mascara's popularity and usage further forward in America. Through the efforts of these two rivals and public temperament, mascara finally gained respectability and favor in American society. Sensing an opportunity, both Rubinstein and Arden launched their own brands of cosmetics that included mascara. After the First World War, American consumers became eager for new products. Elizabeth Arden and Helena Rubinstein, two giants in the American beauty industry, watched and kept abreast of its development. There, at the fashion capital of the world, mascara was quickly gaining popularity and common usage. The events leading to Rubinstein's improvement began in Paris in the early 20th century. No significant improvement occurred until 1957 with an innovation by Helena Rubinstein. A dampened brush was rubbed against a cake containing soap and black dye in equal proportions and applied to the lashes. It was undeniably messy, and a better alternative was soon developed. The mascara developed by these two men consisted of petroleum jelly and coal in a set ratio. In 1917 he started a mail-order business from the product that grew to become the company Maybelline. Īcross the Atlantic Ocean and at roughly the same time, in 1915, Thomas Lyle Williams created a remarkably similar substance for his sister Mabel. The name Rimmel became synonymous with the substance and still translates to "mascara" in the Portuguese, Spanish, Greek, Turkish, Romanian, and Persian languages today. A chemist named Eugène Rimmel developed a cosmetic using the newly invented petroleum jelly. ![]() The product that people would recognize as mascara today did not develop until the 19th century. They would heat a mixture of ash or lampblack and elderberry juice on a plate and apply the heated mixture to their eyelashes. Attempting this, Victorian women made a type of mascara in their own homes. ![]() Great efforts were made to create the illusion of long, dark eyelashes. ĭuring the Victorian era, social opinion shifted radically towards the promotion of cosmetics, and women were known to spend a majority of their day occupied with beauty regimens. Following the fall of the Roman Empire, kohl fell into disuse on the European continent, where it had been considered solely a cosmetic conversely, it continued to be widely used in the Middle East for religious purposes. Through Egypt's influence, kohl usage persisted in the subsequent Babylonian, Greek and Roman empires. Often composed of galena malachite and charcoal or soot, crocodile stool honey and water was added to keep the kohl from running. Kohl was used to mask the eyes, believed to ward off evil spirits and protect the soul, by both men and women. Records from around 4000 BC refer to a substance called kohl that was used to darken eyelashes, eyelids, and eyebrows. History Īesthetic adornment is a cultural universal and mascara can be documented in ancient Egypt. Latin treatises sometimes used the word mascara when referring to witches. The Hebrew word משקרות (MaSQROTh) as relating to women's eyes is found in Isaiah 3:16. There is even strong support for a possible source from the Arabic word maskharah or 'buffoon'. ![]() A related Catalan word describes soot or a black smear, and the Portuguese word máscara means 'mask' and mascarra means dark stain or smut. The Spanish word máscara meaning 'mask' or 'stain', and the Italian word maschera meaning 'mask' are possible origins. The source of the word mascara is unclear. Lynn advises in Lynn's Practical Hints for Making-up, "to darken eyelashes, paint with mascara, or black paint, with a small brush." For darkening the eyebrow and moustaches without greasing them and making them prominent." In 1890, the Century Dictionary defined mascara as "a kind of paint used for the eyebrows and eyelashes by actors." And in 1894, N. In 1886, the Peck & Snyder Catalogue advertises, "Mascaro or Water Cosmetique. The OED also references mascaro from works published in the late 19th century. The Collins English Dictionary defines mascara as "a cosmetic substance for darkening, lengthening, curling, coloring, and thickening the eyelashes, applied with a brush or rod." The Oxford English Dictionary ( OED) adds that mascara is occasionally used on the eyebrows as well.
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